Growing up in a landlocked state there was never much reason to learn how to swim and despite taking two summers of lessons I still wouldn’t consider myself a ‘swimmer’. Most pools I’ve been to have a solid less than 6-foot section and lakes filled with snow runoff are not the place you want to swim laps. Even with all that, I love the ocean. I love listening to the waves, the birds and the fresh smell of salt off the water.
On our honeymoon we took a kayak out from the resort and less than 10 minutes into the water I decided it wasn’t worth the risk of seasickness to go further. I love the ocean but the ocean doesn’t really love me.
When we starting planning a trip to Maui last year, I was excited to spend an entire week enjoying the froth of the waves. Despite swirling in my stomach thinking of going back out on the water, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to get back out on the waves in a new way. I booked surfing lessons with Maui Surfer Girls for a few days into our trip.
Learning to swim has been an ongoing battle. As an adult, there are few reasons to be in a pool that’s too deep to stand but the first instruction on the Maui Surfer Girls website was that you needed to be able to confidently tread water.
Drew is a strong swimmer and was more than a bit concerned about what would happen if I lost my board in deep water. The first couple of days on the island, we waited until after the pool crowd had calmed down for my husband to refresh my memory how to tread water and breaststroke in the hotel pool. After a few lessons, he was semi-willingly was able to believe I wouldn’t drown if the ocean was rougher or deeper than we anticipated. I am sure I’m a better swimmer than I give myself credit, but having not spent a lot of time in the water I’ve never felt incredibly confident about it.
We headed out early on the morning of our lesson down the Lahaina coastline to Ukumehame Beach State Park. The waves were breaking against the beach every few minutes and a strong wind cooled off the warm air rising from the sand. These waves were moving faster than they had the days before, making it apparent that there would be little respite once I was out on the water.
Our instructor Kiki was set up at a picnic table alongside the surfboards our fellow surf students would use. Kiki lent us each a rash guard top to protect us from the waves and after an ample-dosing in reef friendly sunscreen we were ready to get on the boards.
On land, Kiki walked us through an ecology lesson explaining how the reefs surrounding the island of Maui provide the ample environment for waves suitable for surfing. In the area where would be surfing reefs are divided by channels that would allow us to ride back out into the ocean in between each run. These reefs also allow for a relatively predictable wave. Due to the proximity of the reef, it would be important when dismounting the board to stay on top of the water to prevent damaging the fragile reef underneath. Broken reef can take decades to repair.
Next, we learned how to find our stance and what would be necessary to “pop-up” once in the water. Going from laying flat across the board to a yoga upward dog to standing is difficult enough on land. After a few rounds of practicing it was time for us to head out into the water.
As a small group, we would take turns with Kiki assisting us while the rest would sit back in the channel until called forward. Already nervous about my uncertain swimming, the rapid-fire waves brought on from the wind left my heart in my chest as we paddled out for the first run.
After watching Drew nearly pop all the way up on his first wave, Kiki called me forward to head out and catch a wave of my own. Terrified and excited at the same time, I paddled as hard as I could out into the ocean. She braced my board against hers as we waited for the perfect wave.
Once the tips of the water started to move towards us, Kiki let me know she’d be helping me push forward and I paddled as fast as I could. Aided by a strong push from Kiki I was off in the water, racing the wave. Just as I arched my back and felt I could put my feet underneath I lost balance with too much weight to the backside of the board. I was pulling myself under and the wave was done.
Paddling my board out of the waves and back into the channel was exhausting but as I made it back towards where the rest of the class sat I looked over my left shoulder to see a large green sea turtle paddling right alongside me, almost cheering me on to get back out into the ocean. He was so close that if I wasn’t paying attention I would have brushed my fingers against his shell.
After three subsequent runs, I was exhausted and just the thought of fighting the waves back out into the ocean was more than I could take so I headed back to the sand to watch the last few runs by my classmates. I was never able to stand all the way up but I made it. I didn’t ever feel like I was in danger despite the rapid-fire nature of the waves and my limited swimming skills served me perfectly.
My arms burned from the exercise and the adrenaline from the waves filled my entire body. It was the perfect day on the ocean and I can’t wait to get back out and try again. Next time, I’ll stand up.
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